Ethiopia - Things to Do in Ethiopia in December

Things to Do in Ethiopia in December

December weather, activities, events & insider tips

December Weather in Ethiopia

23°C (73°F) High Temp
6°C (43°F) Low Temp
15 mm (0.6 inches) Rainfall
45% Humidity

Is December Right for You?

Advantages

  • Peak dry season with near-zero rain - December typically sees only 15 mm (0.6 inches) across maybe two days, meaning you can plan outdoor activities without weather backup plans. The skies stay reliably clear for photography and mountain trekking.
  • Genna (Ethiopian Christmas) on January 7th falls right after December, but the entire month has this anticipatory festive energy. You'll see preparations everywhere, markets overflow with holiday foods, and locals are in genuinely good spirits. The cultural immersion is authentic, not staged for tourists.
  • Comfortable hiking temperatures in the Simien and Bale Mountains - daytime temps around 18-23°C (64-73°F) at altitude mean you can trek without overheating, while mornings at 6°C (43°F) are crisp but manageable. The dry trails and clear skies make this the absolute best month for Ethiopia's signature highland treks.
  • Lalibela's rock-hewn churches are accessible without mud - the dry conditions mean you can navigate between the 11 churches without slipping on wet rocks or dealing with flooding in the underground passages. The low humidity also makes the physical effort of climbing between sites much more pleasant.

Considerations

  • High season pricing kicks in hard - accommodation costs can jump 40-60% compared to rainy season months, and you'll need to book hotels in Lalibela, Gondar, and Simien Mountains at least 6-8 weeks ahead or face slim pickings. Domestic flight prices to regional airports also peak.
  • Tourist crowds at major sites, particularly Lalibela and Gondar castles - you'll be sharing viewpoints with tour groups, and the churches can feel congested during peak visiting hours (9am-11am and 2pm-4pm). That said, Ethiopia still sees far fewer tourists than Southeast Asian or European destinations, so this is relative.
  • Significant temperature swings require layered packing - that 6°C (43°F) morning in Lalibela feels genuinely cold, especially in stone churches, but by 2pm you're at 23°C (73°F) and sweating in the sun. You'll constantly be adding and removing layers, which gets annoying on long travel days.

Best Activities in December

Simien Mountains trekking and wildlife watching

December is objectively the best month for multi-day treks in the Simiens. The trails are bone-dry after months without rain, visibility extends for dozens of kilometers across the escarpments, and temperatures sit in that perfect 18-23°C (64-73°F) range during hiking hours. You'll spot Gelada baboon troops without the fog that obscures them in other months, and the endemic Walia ibex are more active in the cooler weather. The main routes from Sankaber to Chenek are fully accessible, and you can camp without worrying about nighttime rain. Mornings start cold at 6°C (43°F), so you'll want that early start anyway to catch sunrise over the escarpment before the day warms up.

Booking Tip: Book through licensed guides in Debark (the gateway town) at least 2-3 weeks ahead in December - you'll need to arrange scouts, mules, and camping equipment, and the good guides fill up. Multi-day treks typically run 2,500-4,500 birr per person per day depending on group size and services. Make sure your operator includes the park entrance fee (roughly 900 birr for 5 days) in their quote. Check current trekking packages in the booking section below for organized options.

Lalibela rock-hewn churches exploration

The dry December weather makes navigating Lalibela's 11 medieval churches actually pleasant rather than a muddy ordeal. The underground tunnels connecting the churches stay dry, the rock surfaces aren't slippery, and you can sit in the carved courtyards without worrying about wet stone. The morning light between 7am-9am creates dramatic shadows in the carved facades before tour groups arrive. December also means you'll see preparations for Genna (Ethiopian Christmas on January 7th), with priests conducting special services and locals bringing offerings. The churches are active religious sites, not museums, so you're witnessing living traditions. Just know you'll share the space with more tourists than other months.

Booking Tip: Entry costs 50 USD (paid in birr at current exchange rate, roughly 2,750 birr) for a multi-day pass to all churches. Hire a local guide at the ticket office for 500-800 birr for the day - worth it for historical context and navigating the complex layout. Visit the Northwestern cluster (Bet Medhane Alem, Bet Maryam) right at 7am opening to beat crowds, then hit the Southeastern cluster (Bet Giyorgis, the famous cross-shaped church) around 4pm when afternoon light is best. See current guided tour options in the booking section below.

Danakil Depression and Erta Ale volcano tours

December is one of the few months you can reasonably visit the Danakil without risking heatstroke - temperatures still hit 35-40°C (95-104°F) during the day, but that's actually cooler than the 45-50°C (113-122°F) you'd face in May through September. The dry season means the salt flats are fully accessible, the sulfur springs at Dallol are at their most colorful (yellows, greens, oranges against white salt), and the roads to Erta Ale volcano are passable. You'll typically do this as a 3-4 day expedition from Mekele, camping under stars that are absurdly bright in the desert. The Erta Ale lava lake is one of only five permanent lava lakes on Earth, and December's clear skies mean you get unobstructed views of the glowing crater at night.

Booking Tip: This requires organized tours with 4WD vehicles, armed scouts (mandatory due to regional security), and camping equipment - expect 18,000-25,000 birr for 3-4 days depending on group size. Book through Mekele-based operators at least 3-4 weeks ahead, and confirm current security conditions (the Tigray region has had periodic conflicts, though the Danakil routes have generally remained accessible). The physical demands are real - you'll hike 10 km (6.2 miles) roundtrip to Erta Ale's crater in heat, so assess your fitness honestly. Check current expedition options in the booking section below.

Bale Mountains and Ethiopian wolf tracking

The Bale Mountains in December offer something you can't get anywhere else on Earth - a realistic chance to see Ethiopian wolves, the world's rarest canid with only 500 individuals remaining. December's dry weather means the Sanetti Plateau (at 4,000 m / 13,123 ft elevation) is accessible by vehicle, and the wolves are actively hunting giant molerats in the short Afroalpine grasslands. Early morning (6am-8am) gives you the best sighting odds when wolves are most active. The landscape is otherworldly - think high-altitude moorland with giant lobelias and heather, more like the moon than typical African savanna. You'll also spot mountain nyala (endemic antelope) in the Harenna Forest on the southern slopes.

Booking Tip: Base yourself in Dinsho or Goba and arrange guides through the Bale Mountains National Park headquarters - park entry runs about 200 birr per day, guides cost 300-500 birr per day. A 4WD is necessary for the Sanetti Plateau (the road climbs to 4,000 m / 13,123 ft), which you can rent with driver for 3,500-5,000 birr per day. The altitude is real - you'll feel lightheaded at first, so spend a day acclimatizing in Dinsho (3,000 m / 9,843 ft) before heading higher. Book accommodation in Goba at least 3 weeks ahead for December. See current wildlife tour options in the booking section below.

Historic Route cultural circuit (Gondar, Axum, Tigray churches)

December's dry conditions make the northern Historic Route fully accessible, including the rock-hewn churches of Tigray that require scrambling up cliff faces - you definitely don't want to attempt those on wet rock. Gondar's castles and Fasilides Bath are at their most photogenic under clear blue skies, and the Tigray churches (Abuna Yemata Guh, Maryam Korkor) offer that combination of physical adventure and historical significance you can't get elsewhere. Axum's ancient stelae and the (claimed) Ark of the Covenant church are less weather-dependent, but December's comfortable temperatures make walking between sites pleasant. The entire region has this high-altitude clarity in December - the light is sharp, the air is crisp, and you can see for kilometers.

Booking Tip: This typically requires 7-10 days minimum to cover Gondar, Axum, and select Tigray churches without feeling rushed. Domestic flights between cities (Addis Ababa to Gondar, Axum to Mekele) book up in December, so reserve at least 6-8 weeks ahead - Ethiopian Airlines is the main carrier. Entry fees vary by site (Gondar castles around 400 birr, Axum stelae field 150 birr). For Tigray cliff churches, you'll need a local guide (500-800 birr per day) who knows the routes and can arrange the priests who hold the keys. Check current historic site tour packages in the booking section below.

Addis Ababa coffee ceremony experiences and cultural dining

December in Addis Ababa means you can actually enjoy walking between neighborhoods without rain interruptions - the city sits at 2,400 m (7,874 ft), so December temperatures are mild (15-23°C / 59-73°F) and perfect for exploring on foot. The traditional coffee ceremony is Ethiopia's signature cultural experience - green beans roasted over charcoal, hand-ground with a mortar and pestle, brewed in a jebena clay pot, and served in three rounds. You'll find this happening in homes, restaurants, and even on street corners. December also brings doro wat (spicy chicken stew) season as families prepare for upcoming holidays - the berbere spice blend is at its freshest after the recent harvest. The Merkato market, one of Africa's largest open-air markets, is navigable in December's dry weather without trudging through mud.

Booking Tip: Coffee ceremonies are offered at most traditional restaurants for 150-300 birr per person, taking about 45-60 minutes for all three rounds. For authentic cultural dining with injera and various wots (stews), expect 300-600 birr per person at mid-range restaurants in the Bole or Piazza areas. Walking food tours of Addis neighborhoods typically run 1,500-2,500 birr per person for 3-4 hours. The National Museum (housing Lucy, the 3.2 million year old hominid fossil) costs 100 birr entry and pairs well with coffee nearby. See current Addis Ababa cultural tour options in the booking section below.

December Events & Festivals

Throughout December (building toward January 7th)

Genna (Ethiopian Christmas) preparations

While Genna itself falls on January 7th (Ethiopia uses the Julian calendar, which is 7-8 years behind the Gregorian calendar), the entire month of December pulses with preparation energy. Markets overflow with white cotton fabric for traditional dresses, frankincense and myrrh for church ceremonies, and ingredients for doro wat and kitfo. Churches hold special evening services with haunting chants that echo through stone walls. You'll see priests in elaborate robes conducting blessings, and families gathering to prepare holiday foods. It's not a tourist event - it's daily life ramping up toward a major religious celebration, which makes it feel authentic rather than performative.

Essential Tips

What to Pack

Serious layering system - you need clothes for 6°C (43°F) mornings and 23°C (73°F) afternoons. Pack a warm fleece or down jacket for early starts in Lalibela or Simien Mountains, plus lightweight long-sleeve shirts you can strip down to by midday.
SPF 50+ sunscreen and lip balm with SPF - the UV index hits 9 at Ethiopia's high altitudes (most cities are 2,000-2,500 m / 6,562-8,202 ft), and the thin atmosphere provides less UV protection. You'll burn faster than you expect, especially on multi-day treks.
Modest clothing for church visits - shoulders and knees must be covered at religious sites, and women typically need to cover their hair in some churches. Pack a lightweight scarf that serves double duty as sun protection and church covering.
Broken-in hiking boots if you're doing any trekking - the Simien and Bale Mountains trails are rocky and uneven, and new boots will destroy your feet. The dry December conditions mean you don't need waterproof boots, so breathable leather or fabric works fine.
Headlamp with extra batteries - power cuts are common outside major cities, and if you're camping in the Simiens or Danakil, you'll need reliable light. Useful for pre-dawn starts to catch sunrise views.
Water purification tablets or a filter bottle - tap water isn't safe to drink, and buying bottled water for 2-3 weeks adds up and creates plastic waste. A Sawyer filter or Aquatabs let you refill from larger containers.
Cash in small bills (US dollars and Ethiopian birr) - credit cards work in upscale Addis Ababa hotels but nowhere else. Bring clean, newer US bills (post-2013 series) for changing to birr, as banks reject worn or old-series dollars. Keep bills under 50 USD for easier exchange.
Basic first aid kit with altitude sickness medication - Diamox (acetazolamide) helps with acclimatization if you're going to Simien Mountains (peaks above 4,000 m / 13,123 ft) or Sanetti Plateau. Also pack imodium, antihistamines, and blister treatment.
Dust mask or buff for Danakil Depression - if you're doing the Danakil, the salt flats kick up fine dust that gets in your lungs and eyes. A simple cloth mask or neck buff makes the experience much more comfortable.
Unlocked phone for local SIM card - Ethio Telecom SIM cards cost about 50-100 birr with data packages running 500-1,000 birr for 10-20 GB. Coverage is decent in cities and along main routes, though spotty in remote areas like the Danakil.

Insider Knowledge

Book domestic flights the moment you finalize your itinerary - Ethiopian Airlines operates the main routes (Addis to Lalibela, Gondar, Axum, Mekele, Arba Minch), and December flights fill up 6-8 weeks ahead. The airline sometimes adds extra flights during peak season, but don't count on it. Flying saves you 10-12 hour bus rides on rough roads.
The Ethiopian calendar is 7-8 years behind the Gregorian calendar, and the clock runs on a 12-hour system starting at dawn (6am) - when locals say 3 o'clock, they might mean 9am or 9pm depending on context. Always clarify whether times are in 'faranji time' (foreigner time, meaning standard 24-hour) or Ethiopian time to avoid missing buses or tours.
Lalibela's churches close for several hours midday for prayers and lunch - typically noon to 2pm or 2:30pm. Don't plan to visit during this window. Use that time for lunch at your hotel and rest, because the altitude (2,500 m / 8,202 ft) and walking between churches is more tiring than you expect.
The Danakil Depression security situation requires checking current conditions - while tours have been running consistently for the past few years, the Afar region and nearby Tigray have experienced periodic conflicts. Confirm with your tour operator within 2 weeks of departure that routes are clear. Reputable operators will have current intel from local authorities and will reschedule if needed rather than risk it.

Avoid These Mistakes

Underestimating the altitude impact - most of Ethiopia's tourist sites sit between 2,000-4,000 m (6,562-13,123 ft) elevation, and even fit travelers feel winded climbing stairs or hiking in the first day or two. Build in acclimatization time, especially before attempting Simien Mountains treks. Drink more water than you think you need and skip alcohol the first night at altitude.
Trying to cover too much ground too quickly - the distances look manageable on a map, but Ethiopian roads outside main highways are rough, slow, and exhausting. A 200 km (124 mile) drive can take 6-7 hours. Don't plan more than one major destination change per day, and build in rest days in places like Lalibela or Gondar rather than constantly moving.
Expecting Western meal timing and food - Ethiopians eat later than Americans or Europeans (lunch around 1-2pm, dinner 8-9pm), and every meal centers on injera (sour fermented flatbread) with various wots (stews). If you're not into injera, you'll struggle - it's not like Thailand where you can easily find alternatives. Give injera a genuine try for several meals before deciding you don't like it, as it grows on most people.

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