Axum, Ethiopia - Things to Do in Axum

Things to Do in Axum

Axum, Ethiopia - Complete Travel Guide

Axum stands as one of Ethiopia's most significant historical sites, serving as the ancient capital of the Aksumite Empire that once rivaled Rome and Persia. The city's towering granite obelisks pierce the sky like ancient skyscrapers, marking burial sites of long-dead kings and creating one of Africa's most striking archaeological landscapes. What makes Axum particularly fascinating is how seamlessly ancient history blends with living tradition - you'll find locals going about their daily lives among ruins that date back over 2,000 years. Beyond the famous stelae field, Axum holds deep religious significance as the supposed resting place of the Ark of the Covenant, housed in the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion. The city feels authentically Ethiopian rather than touristy, with traditional markets, coffee ceremonies happening on street corners, and a pace of life that seems unchanged for centuries. It's the kind of place where you might find yourself chatting with a priest about ancient manuscripts one moment and watching kids play football among millennium-old ruins the next.

Top Things to Do in Axum

Northern Stelae Field

The towering granite obelisks here represent some of the finest examples of ancient engineering in Africa, with the tallest standing monument reaching 23 meters high. You'll wander among dozens of these carved pillars, each marking royal burial sites and decorated with intricate false doors and windows. The craftsmanship is genuinely impressive - these aren't crude stone slabs but sophisticated architectural achievements that have weathered over 1,700 years.

Booking Tip: Entry costs around 200 birr and the site is open daily from 8am-6pm. Early morning visits offer the best light for photography, and you'll likely have the place mostly to yourself before tour groups arrive around 10am.

Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion

This sacred complex claims to house the original Ark of the Covenant, making it one of the holiest sites in Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity. While only men can enter the old church and the Ark remains off-limits to everyone except the guardian monk, the atmosphere here is genuinely moving. You'll witness pilgrims from across Ethiopia coming to pray, and the newer church features beautiful murals depicting biblical scenes with distinctly Ethiopian characteristics.

Booking Tip: No entrance fee, but donations are appreciated. Dress modestly with covered shoulders and long pants. The church is most active during morning services around 6-8am, which offers an authentic spiritual experience if you don't mind the early start.

Tomb of King Kaleb and King Gebre Meskel

These underground burial chambers offer a fascinating glimpse into Aksumite royal burial practices, with stone-cut passages leading to multiple chambers. The tombs are remarkably well-preserved, featuring massive stone slabs and intricate masonry that demonstrates the sophisticated building techniques of the 6th century. You'll need a flashlight to properly appreciate the craftsmanship in these dimly lit corridors.

Booking Tip: Entry is around 100 birr and includes a local guide who carries a flashlight. The tombs can feel claustrophobic, so mention any concerns about enclosed spaces. Best visited in the afternoon when the heat makes the cool underground chambers particularly welcome.

Queen of Sheba's Bath

This large reservoir, locally known as Mai Shum, fills with water during the rainy season and becomes a gathering place for locals and their livestock. While the connection to the legendary Queen of Sheba is more folklore than fact, the site offers insight into ancient Aksumite water management systems. The surrounding area provides excellent views of the modern town against the backdrop of ancient ruins.

Booking Tip: Free to visit and particularly photogenic during and just after the rainy season (June-September) when it's full of water. The walk takes about 20 minutes from the town center, and local kids often offer to guide you for a small tip.

Axum Archaeological Museum

This compact but well-curated museum houses artifacts that bring the ancient Aksumite civilization to life, including ancient coins, pottery, and religious artifacts. The collection includes some genuinely rare pieces, like Aksumite coins that show the empire's trade connections with Rome and India. What makes it special is how it contextualizes everything else you'll see in Axum - it's worth visiting early in your stay.

Booking Tip: Entry costs about 50 birr and the museum is open Tuesday-Sunday, 8:30am-12:30pm and 1:30pm-5:30pm. The English descriptions are decent, but hiring a guide for 100-150 birr provides much richer context about the artifacts and their historical significance.

Getting There

Ethiopian Airlines operates daily flights from Addis Ababa to Axum Airport, with the 1.5-hour flight being the most practical option for most travelers. The airport sits about 5km from town, and hotel transfers or taxis typically cost around 100-150 birr. Overland travel is possible but challenging - the drive from Addis Ababa takes 12-14 hours on increasingly rough roads, though the scenery through the Ethiopian highlands can be spectacular. Some travelers combine Axum with the historic route, coming from Lalibela (6-8 hours by road) or Gondar (4-5 hours), which makes more sense than the long haul from the capital.

Getting Around

Axum is refreshingly walkable, with most major sites within a 2-3km radius of the town center. The main stelae field sits right in town, and you can easily walk between the churches, museum, and most archaeological sites. For longer distances or in the heat, blue three-wheeled bajaj taxis charge 20-50 birr for short rides around town. Hotels can arrange bicycle rentals for around 100 birr per day, which works well given the relatively flat terrain and light traffic. For sites like the Queen of Sheba's Bath or if you want to venture into the surrounding countryside, hiring a guide with local knowledge costs around 300-500 birr per day and proves worthwhile.

Where to Stay

Town Center near Stelae Field
Airport Road area
Church of Mary of Zion vicinity
Main Market area
Adwa Road
University area

Food & Dining

Axum's dining scene centers around traditional Ethiopian cuisine served in family-run restaurants that feel more authentic than polished. You'll find excellent injera with various stews at places like Yeha Hotel Restaurant or Consolar International Hotel, where vegetarian platters during fasting periods (Wednesdays, Fridays, and Lent) showcase the complexity of Ethiopian Orthodox cuisine. Local tej houses serve honey wine in traditional glasses, and the coffee ceremony remains a daily ritual worth experiencing - locals often invite curious travelers to join. That said, international food options are limited, so come prepared to embrace Ethiopian flavors or stick to the few hotel restaurants that attempt continental dishes with varying degrees of success.

Top-Rated Restaurants in Ethiopia

Highly-rated dining options based on Google reviews (4.5+ stars, 100+ reviews)

Cravings Restaurant & Bar

4.6 /5
(2395 reviews)
bar

Vaccari Italian Restaurant

4.5 /5
(220 reviews)

Belvedere Restaurant

4.5 /5
(216 reviews)

Sale e Pepe

4.5 /5
(170 reviews)

Henom Restaurant

4.7 /5
(124 reviews)

Black Rose Lounge

4.5 /5
(121 reviews)
bar night_club

When to Visit

The dry season from October to March offers the most comfortable weather, with clear skies perfect for photographing the stelae and daytime temperatures in the pleasant 20-25°C range. December through February tends to be coolest and driest, making it ideal for walking between sites, though this is also peak tourist season. The rainy season from June to September brings lush green landscapes and fills the Queen of Sheba's Bath, but daily downpours can make getting around muddy and some rural roads impassable. Interestingly, the shoulder months of April-May and September-October offer a nice compromise - fewer crowds, decent weather, and lower accommodation prices, though you might catch the occasional shower.

Insider Tips

Many of the most knowledgeable local guides hang around the stelae field entrance rather than booking through hotels - they often provide more passionate and detailed explanations than official tour operators.
The Saturday market offers an authentic slice of local life and is worth timing your visit around, with farmers bringing produce from surrounding villages and traditional crafts available at genuine local prices.
If you're genuinely interested in the religious significance, attending early morning prayers at Mary of Zion provides a moving spiritual experience, but be respectful and dress very conservatively - locals appreciate visitors who show sincere interest rather than just snapping photos.

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